The hardest thing to learn is something you think you already know.  Krishnamurti called this "the tyranny of the known" and many of the world's greatest thinkers have expressed similar sentiments.  The past, if unchecked, puts you in a hole that leaves you looking from the inside out, your horizon limited to what you can see from down there, your options defined by the lowest common denominator of the known. 

So, as you leave the old year behind, remember that where you stand depends on where you sit.  Turn the past on its head, use it as a scaffold that lifts you out of that hole and onto the mountain that is the memory you share with the Universe.  From there you can see horizons and adventures previously unimagined.

Who's to say you can't make a magical image from a battered dog bowl and windblown table on your back-stoep?

Still Life with Dog Bowl.

Still Life with Kudu Horns.

Still Life with Kudu Horns

This image reminded me of the Sunday Times 50-word novel competition some years ago.  I never got around to submitting mine, but it stuck in the back of my mind.

IT'S GOOD TO BE ALIVE ...

They let her out eventually. She found her way back to him, as he knew she would.  They made love, then held each other.  As he slept she slit his throat and left.  For the first time, in a long time, it felt good to be alive.

The “smoke that thunders”, as locals call the Victoria Falls, left an indelible image in my mind and coming back has been something of a bucket list item especially as my long-suffering, travel-addicted wife had never seen the falls.

Was it worth returning?  A thousand times over. 

No matter how many photos or films you may have seen, the Victoria Falls are bigger, better, louder and more majestic than you could imagine.

Victoria Falls RainbowAs long as the sun is out, the Falls produce spectacular rainbows every day. In August the best time to see them is 14h30.

The Spray 2The spray at the Victoria Falls in August On the edgeSwimmers in a pool on the edge of the Victoria Falls ... Where to stay?  It all depends on your budget, but we gritted our teeth and booked at the “Old Lady of Africa”, the Victoria Falls Hotel, built in 1904 and still one of Africa’s iconic hotels.  There may be less expensive options, but none grander.  The laughter of long-departed guests echoes through the corridors and history oozes from every carefully looked-after nook and cranny.  The staff are wonderful, the table superb (the White Chocolate Crème Brule they serve in the Livingstone Dining Room is to die for), and you can see the spray of the falls from the Terrace.  Be careful when you order a drink though.  Unless you tell them what brand of gin or whiskey you want, the barman will send you the most expensive one they have.

The Victoria Falls Hotel.Looking at the Grand Old Lady of Africa with the Falls at my back. One of the lounges at the Vic Falls Hotel.One of the lounges at the Vic Falls Hotel. A step back in time ....

Everything in Vic Falls is commercialised these days.  Hardly a surprise!  My advice to first time visitors would be to find an operator (or hotel) to arrange your activities.  That means they take care of bookings, transfers, entrance fees and whatever else needs looking after.

Clarissa from Shearwater.Clarissa from Shearwater. She arranged everything.

We only had three days so we crammed in as much as we could.   I’ll get to everything over the next few posts.

Needless to say, you have to see the falls.  Get yourself a guide and something to keep your camera dry.  For the rest, your hair and clothes dry out quickly enough and the schlep of raincoats and umbrellas is for the touts to make money.  On a first visit a guide adds huge value.  Once you have walked with someone to fill you in, the falls, the history, the route, the lookout points and the names make sense.

Markson, our guide at the Victoria Falls.Markson, our guide at the Victoria Falls. Colourful curio shop at the Victoria Falls.Colourful curio shop at the Victoria Falls.